TUTORIAL MEMBUAT GAUN

Cara Mudah Membuat Pola Gaun

Sesuai janjiku sebelumnya, kali ini aku mau mengajak membuat gaun hasil rancanganku sendiri. Siapa saja yang berminat boleh ngopy  paste pola dan rancanganku ini gratis.Gaun ini terdiri dari bahan motif dan polos, boleh dari jenis apapun. Polanya aku kembangkan dari methode “Dress Making “ dan kumodifikasi sendiri biar mudah diikuti pembuatannya.

Sebelum mulai membuat pola, kita harus lebih dulu mengambil ukuran. Ukuran apa saja yang  kita perlukan? Itu sih tergantung apa yang mau kita buat. Misalnya: Rok, celana, kemeja, blouse ,kebaya atau gaun ( baju terusan).Terus apa saja alat yang mesti kita siapkan? Yang jelas orang yang mau kita ukur itu harus berada di dekat kita, pasti. Pada bagian- bagian  area tubuh tertentu harus lebih dulu ditandai dengan cara mengikat dengan tali atau pita, untuk memudahkan proses pengukuran serta posisi orang yang diukur harus dalam keadaan tegap. Area- area itu adalah: Pinggang dan  panggul. Sedang alat- alat yang perlu disiapkan adalah:

  1. Buku  / kertas HVS
  2. Skala 1:4 dan penggaris siku.
  3. Pensil  dan pensil warna merah biru ( untuk menandai perubahan mode).
  4. Mistar
  5. Pita meteran ( untuk mengambil ukuran).

Dalam pembuatan gaun ini ukuran yang diperlukan adalah:

  1. LINGKAR BADAN : Diukur sekeliling badan melalui badan atas yang terbesar + 3cm atau menambahkan 4 jari.
  2. LINGKAR LEHER : Diukur sekeliling leher melalui lekuk leher +1 cm atau dengan cara memasukkan 1 jari.
  3. PANJANG PUNGGUNG : Diukur dari tulang punggung yang menonjol ke bawah sampai garis pinggang.
  4. PANJANG BAHU : Diukur dari batas leher sampai tulang bahu yang menonjol.
  5. LEBAR DADA : Diukur 5 cm  ke bawah dari lekuk leher depan ,kemudian ditarik garis mendatar dari kerung satu ke kerung lainnya.
  6. LEBAR PUNGGUNG : Diukur 8 cm ke bawah dari tulang punggung yang menonjol, kemudian ditarik garis mendatar dari kerung satu ke kerung lainnya.
  7. LINGKAR PANGGUL : Diukur sekeliling panggul pada bagian yang terbesar +4 cm.
  8. TINGGI PANGGUL : Diukur dari garis pinggang sampai garis panggul.
  9. PANJANG ROK : Diukur dari garis pinggang ke bawah sampai panjang yang dikehendaki.
  10. PANJANG LENGAN : Diukur dari batas bahu sampai panjang yang dikehendaki dengan cara membengkokkan lengan sedikit.
  11. TINGGI KEPALA LENGAN : Diukur dari batas bahu ke bawah sampai bagian lengan yang sejajar dengan batas ketiak.
  12. LINGKAR LENGAN : Diukur sekeliling lengan bawah (pergelangan} denga lebar menyesuaikan model.

Cotoh ukuran dalam gambar model:

 

  1. Ling. Badan                  = 88 cm
  2. Ling. Leher                   = 36 cm
  3. Panj. Punggung = 38 cm
  4. Panj. Bahu                    = 12,5 cm
  5. Leb. Dada                    = 34 cm
  6. Leb. Punggung  = 36 cm
  7. Ling. Panggul                = 96 cm
  8. Tinggi Panggul  = 20 cm
  9.  Panj. Rok                    = 96 cm
  10. Panj. Lengan                = 58 cm
  11. Tinggi kep. Lengan       = 12 cm
  12. Ling. Lengan                 = 26 cm

KETERANGAN POLA BAGIAN DEPAN:

 

A – B   = P. punggung + 1,5 cm

A – C   = 1/6 ling. Leher + 2 CM.

A – E    = 1/6 ling. leher + 1cm

E  – H   = p. bahu

H –  I    = Turun 2,5 cm

A – D   = (  ½ p. punggung + 1.5 cm ) + 3 cm

D – F   =  (¼  Ling. Badan + 1cm ) + 3cm

C – J    = ½ C – D

J – K    =  ½  leb. Dada + .1 cm

Hubungkan titik A-C dan A- E  menjadi kerung leher depan

I – F melalui K menjadi kerung lengan bagian depan

B – B’  = turun 3 cm

B’ – L = Panjang rok

B; – G  = Tinggi panggul

B’- B”  = ( D – F) – 2 cm, kemudian naikkan 2 cm

G – G’ = (D- F ) + 1 cm

L – M  = (G –G’ ) + 5 cm

M – M’ naik 2 cm

Hubungkan titik F – B” (yang dinaikkan) ke M’ – L melalui titik G’

KETERANGAN POLA BAGIAN BELAKANG

A –B    = turun 2,5 cm

A – E   = 1/6 ling. Leher + 1 cm

E – H   = Panj. Bahu

H – I    = turun 3 cm

B – D   = panj.Punggung

B – C   = ½ panj. Punggung + 3 cm

C – F   = ( ¼ ling.badan – 1 cm ) + 3 cm

B – B’ = turun 9 cm

B’ – B”=  ½ lebar punggung + 1 cm

Hubungkan E – B menjadi kerung leher belakang

I – F melalui B” menjadi kerung lengan belakang

D – G   =  (C – F) – 2 cm

D – J    = Tinggi Panggul

J – K    = ( C – F ) + 1cm

D – L   = Panj. Rok

L – M  =( J – K ) + 5 cm

Hubungkan titik F- G  ke M – L melalui titik  K

KETERANGAN POLA LENGAN

 

A –B    = Jumlah lingkar kerung lengan depan dan belakang – 4 cm

(diambil dari kerung lengan gambar pola dengan cara melingkari kerung dari titik         I sampai F )

A –E    =E – B = ½ A-B

E – C   = Tinggi kepala lengan

C – D   = panjang lengan

D – D’ = D – D = ½ lingkar lengan bawah

C – B   = Dibagi 4 titik F-G-J

C – A   =Dibagi 3 titikA-H-I-C

Sekarang coba perhatikan tanda- tanda  perubahannya:

  • Garis dengan pensil warna merah merupakan pola yang kita ambil untuk bagian depan.
  • Garis dengan pensil warna biru menunjukkan pola yang kita gunakan untuk bagian belakang.
  • Bagian yang diarsir adalah hasil dari penyesuaian pola dengan model yang kita pakai, berarti bagian itu dibuang atau tidak terpakai.
  • Untuk bagian kupnat ( coupnaad ) ukur saja lebar garis pinggang yang ada pada pola dibagi 2 terus geser ke kiri dan kanan masing- masing 1,5 cm, jadi jumlah  klebar kupnat adalah 3 cm
  • Arahkan titik tengah kupnat ke atas   kurang lebih 14 cm dan ke bawah 11,5 cm.
  • Hubungkan puncak dan ujung kupnat ke arah lebar kupnat ( ke kiri dan kanan) sehingga membentuk segitiga.

Mudah bukan? Tapi tunggu dulu, masih ada beberapa tahapan untuk sampai pada perwujudan pola menjadi bentuk sebenarnya/ jadi yang siap dipakai.

Inilah beberapa tahapan yng harus dilalui selanjutnya:

  1. Merancang Bahan, yaitu meletakkan pola pada bahan.
  2. Menggunting Bahan ( cutting )
  3. Memberi Tanda jahitan pada bagian- bagian tertentu yang sulit, contoh : Batas jahitan, letak kupnat dll.
  4. Menjahit / sewing.
  5. Finishing, di sini kita juga bisa memberi sentuhan akhir pada hasil jahitan dengan menambahkan sulaman dan manik- manik.

Agar mutu jahitan kita bagus, pelajari juga “ teknologi menjahit” yang juga berguna untuk memudahkan kita menjahit..

SUMBER:

http://ichadiyah.blogspot.co.id/2011/04/cara-mudah-membuat-pola-gaun.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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